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Article by O & T Bryers (1988)

Walking
 
Our favourite walk is to Calgary Point, the most westerly part of Coll. This is a round walk of about nine miles but the distance may be considerably increased as the animal, vegetable and geological interests cause many detours. The ground conditions are reasonable and suitable for most walking shoes. There are three fences to cross, but only one is difficult, the others having convenient openings.

We usually leave our car under Ben Feall and walk down the grassy path to the south of it. First you see Eadair Dà Beinn (hollow between the two hills) which is the small glen between Ben Feall and Bheinn Bheag (the little ben). In the rocky section of the glen fulmars nest freely on every suitable ledge and are quite unconcerned when approached.

After about half a mile you reach beautiful Feall Bay, with a beach - approximately three quarters of a mile long - of lovely firm clean sand to walk along. From the west end of the bay Ben Feall, Bheinn Bheag and Leac Chogaidh (the rock of strife) dominate the east end. At Port Ḿne (the smooth harbour) you continue south west to Sloc an Àm-lain (the gully of the net), Sloc na Chŕce (greasy gully), Sloc nam Caorach (gully of the sheep). This part of the walk is a grassy meadow bounded on the north side by cliffs and the breaking sea and is a good spot for picking mushrooms in the right season, by the way.

Further west, Tràigh Halum is reached. A grey, sandy beach, generally with a lot of debris, it's only interesting for beachcombers - the sort of beach that would appear to keep fish-box manufacturers in business. The seas breaking on A'Chairidhe (reef of rocks running into sea) and the diving terns can enliven the picture somewhat. It was here, several years ago, that we met a man with a Hotel bicycle looking for 'the metalled road'!

Travelling south down the coast you reach the survey station at Calgary Point, and here, to the south, extends the view that must contain the most beautiful necklace of sandy bays in all Scotland. It stretches from Calgarry Point to Port à Chromain (Port of the Hawk), the southernmost part of Coll. To the west, across Caolas Bàn (the pale or wan channel) lie Gunna and Tiree. Just a few hundred yards south of the Point is Eileanan-Fheoir (island of grass) which is a favourite place for seals who, in their curiosity, may follow you all the way down through Creagan a Chaolais Bhàin (the stone of the pale channel), Tràigh nan Siolag (beach of the sand-eels), Tràigh Gharbh (rough beach), Poll Fadhain (McFadyen's Pool). Cowrie shells are common along these beaches and sea holly grows among the dunes, where there are three small lochs. In summer they hold but little water and are called Loch nan Easgannan (loch of the eels), Lochan a' Chuirn (the pool by the cairn) and Lochan Seilach (loch of the willows).

At Port a Chromain you turn north-east, continuing to follow the coast line which has many intimate sandy bays and inlets, to the deserted house at Coalas which overlooks Sgeir Araichean (boundary gully). On this stretch there are beautiful beds of wild geraniums and at least one gullery which, if you can't see, you can certainly smell and hear! From Caolas to Crossapol burial ground is less than half a mile. Time and the weather are unfortunately ravaging the walls and memorial stones of this picturesque and historic cemetery.

From here one can either return to the starting point via the very large sand dunes or by the more enjoyable route across Traigh Crossapol and then northwards by the old airfield at Ben Feall ... And so ends, weather permitting, a perfect walk!

Gaelic place names and spellings taken from the 1:25.000 Ordnance Survey series and their translations into English have kindly been made by Hugh McKinnon. The Ordnance Survey spellings may be in dispute, but who would argue with Hugh's translations!
Images associated with this article:-

View from Crossapol Burial Ground
Coll Magazine - Article by O & T Bryers

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