Memories of the Nevada

Having just read a copy of the Coll Magazine (Issue 3 1985), I would like to share with you my recollection of memorable days for me as a 21 year old in July 1942.

I was sent to join the Nevada II, a French cargo vessel bound for West Africa, run by the Free French as third Mate. The ship's crew were French with the exception of the fireman trimmers who were Senegalese and Muslims.

The trials experienced on boarding and leaving the ship by bosun's chair have been described in that magazine. I was required to keep a watch aboard during the night during the first days aground. It was quite eerie being alone on board with creaking noises as the ship moved slightly with the swell. On being relieved in the early morning by the second officer it was quite a sight to see some revellers sleeping it off on the rocks, with cigarettes strewn around them surrounded by empty bottles and round cigarette tins (used as drinking vessels!).

The villagers were much impressed by the Senegalese and the French Navy men etc., who were all accommodated ashore. When off duty I stayed at the Arinagour Hotel run by the MacQuarrie family. The weather was marvellous and I fell in love with the island so much so that I eventually married a Highland girl and retired to Wester Ross.

Weather was calm at first and we waited for the landing craft to offload the cargo to lighten the ship but after usual delays, red tape and deteriorating sea conditions, more flooding of holds occurred and thoughts of salvaging the ship were abandoned. It was decided that I should accompany the Senegalese and the French naval ratings to Liverpool.

We boarded the MacBrayne's steamer for the trip to Oban. (I believe it was the S.S. Hebrides). On arrival there, customs examined crew's luggage, and some spirits and tobacco were seized. Some of the men had clothing and footwear which had been pilfered from the cargo. After much delay, the local agent arranged for us to have a meal in the cinema restaurant. I sat with the gunners and the Senegalese sat at other tables when suddenly there was an uproar in the kitchen. I rushed to see what it was and found the marabout leader of the Moslem fireman demanding to know what was in the pies they had been given. Some were pork and to calm the situation I managed to get the men corned beef!

The crew were accommodated at the Fishermen's Mission and I stayed at the Commercial Hotel (now closed). It was Glasgow Fair time and many holidaymakers wore a ribbon on their arm showing they had been vaccinated because of a smallpox scare in Glasgow at the time. The following morning I rounded them all up and boarded the train which was crowded as usual in wartime. We could not all sit together so the crew was scattered. We had to change, I believe, at Carlisle. Whenever at a station some of the men would rush to my carriage shouting, "C'est ici qu'on change?" (Do we change here?) I would have to chase them back to their respective seats!

All went well until Preston. I noticed that when we stopped some French sailors with their red pompoms on the opposite platform about to enter the refreshment room. I jumped up and ran across the bridge and on arrival at the bar found that they were not my men. Trushed back to my train but halfway across the bridge, the train took off without me. What a situation. I had all the men's rail tickets, none spoke English and I had all the instructions for their accommodation in Liverpool. The Preston Stationmaster telephoned Liverpool to warn them to hold the men until I arrived about 1'/2 hours later by suburban train. It all sorted itself out.

In 1986 I paid a brief visit to Coll and was pleased to meet Mrs E. Crotty by chance on the pier. I also met Mr and Mrs Lachie MacDonald and was delighted to talk with Lachie who had been employed when the wreck was broken up. We were taken in Mrs Crotty's landrover to the site of the grounding. I was friendly with Mrs Crotty many years before she 'emigrated' to Coll. It was with much regret that I learned that Mr MacDonald had died.

Eric J. Hobbs.
November 1998, Ullapool